Right, well. I got my hands on a bunch of patterns (and fabric) while over the USA, where things are amazingly cheap compared to here. So far I have made 2 chemises.
One is the chemise from the Laughing Moon pattern 100 (Ladies Victorian Underthings). According to the Great Pattern Review, multiple people had problems with the armholes being too tight and the straps on the yoke being too wide. So I made a muslin of it first, which turned out to be a good thing, although I am usually way too impatient to do stuff like make muslins. Firstly, I discovered one source to potential fitting problems for me: my chest measurement is at least 1 size smaller than my bust measurement. But the pattern didn’t provide a chest measurement, so I had to figure this out by making the first muslin too big. Then, sure enough, the straps/shoulder pieces were set very wide and seemed actually to have a boat-neck cut that didn’t sit on the shoulder at all, but on the upper arm. I think actually this is the way it is designed to sit, but the front of the pattern is misleading because the chemise is shown on a dressmaking form without arms, so the straps are up on the shoulders. So I had to adjust the pattern so the straps were up on the shoulders, making the neckline more U-shaped. This is weird because pattern drafting and/or hard-core adjustments are not my strong point. Luckily I did this while I was over in the States, so I had my mom’s help (I was giving her a nervous breakdown). We also adjusted the armholes, not by cutting the bottom of the opening lower, but by cutting the whole underarm band of the yoke and moving it down about 1 cm.
I’d say that some experience following patterns is a plus in using this one because some basic steps, like clipping curves and pressing seams, are left out. Not that this is a problem for anyone but a total beginner. I made the chemise from bleached muslin and the side seams of the skirt have French seams. I didn’t do the pin tucks at the bottom, but I did trim the yoke with cotton lace and I’m really satisfied with how it turned out. I fastened the front of the yoke with three small buttons, and the neck opening is actually large enough that I just sewed the buttons through both pieces and didn’t bother making buttonholes.
The other chemise I made was from the Sense and Sensibility Regency Underpinnings. I made this one from white batiste in a size XL. Her size XL is larger than an off the rack XL and goes up to a size 26. It’s plenty large on me. The neckline is very large but there is a drawstring to adjust it. All of the seams are flat-felled, which I did not know how to do prior to making the chemise, but there are excellent instructions. The underarm of the chemise has a square gusset which I also never had done before, but once again, there were excellent instructions. The chemise turned out very well, and the seams and the gussets give it a special touch. The instructions were fantastic all the way through, and very clearly illustrated.
Since my goal when I got all wrapped up in this was to make the S+S Regency Gown, I moved on to making a pair of short stays, also from the Underpinnings pattern. I have a DD-E-F (depending on brand) bra cup size, and according to the website this is too large for the stays to provide adequate support. However, I emailed Mrs Chancey, who produces the patterns, and asked if the stays could be adjusted by lengthening them at the bottom and making longer gores. She confirmed that others had done this with success.
I made the stays in three layers as per the instructions: the inside of bleached muslin, the middle layer of cotton duck (which my mother insisted on referring to as my “sailcloth”) and the outside layer of some inexpensive white-on-white cotton I found with a small flower print. First I made a muslin, during which I found out that I again needed to use 1 size smaller than I expected. Cutting it out was a pain, as was putting in 12 gores. (4 in each layer) However, the instructions are very clear and well-illustrated, just like for the chemise.
The instructions call for stitched eyelets up the front, either machine-stitched or handmade. This seemed like a real pain, so I bought metal eyelets, but then found that they couldn’t manage the thickness of the three layers. 
So I ended up hand-stitching the eyelets with buttonhole thread, which took forever. Also, I recommend a thimble for this. I didn’t have one, and I could really feel it, trying to get the needle through the cotton duck. However, once again, the instructions for sewing the eyelets are excellent, and the unevenness of mine is due purely to my own innate sloppiness and impatience!!!
I used bias tape to bind the edges of the stays, except at the front openings, where I used wide twill tape. The pattern gives instructions for making your own bias tape, but I’ve done that before and while it looks good, I didn’t feel like doing the work for a purely functional undergarment.
When I was finished and put the stays on (over the S+S chemise) I could say that they were definitely supportive. Almost explosively so. But the relatively stiff edge of the stays is very visible and sort of sticks out right at the bustline. Apparently you can put a drawstring through the top of the stays to draw it a little bit in. In the end I also ended up adjusting the gores slightly. And because I have somewhat of a tummy, I ended up shortening the stays in the front (I just cut off the bottom and made a new binding), which drastically increased the comfort level. So that turned out well enough.
Now I’ve turned to the Regency Gown bodice. I have the bodice supplement for 18-26D/DD. I made a muslin, but it was hard for me to tell how it was fitting, so I turned to the Sense and Sensibility Forum, and have been getting help there. But more bothersome than the fitting is how apparent the front of the stays are under the muslin. The hard upper front edge of the stays is really “out there” and I’m finding that it’s really bothering me, but at this point it’s hard for me to determine how much it’s visible under the finished bodice.
At the same time, I’ve decided that I want to try an actual corset (particularly since Mrs. Chancey actually recommends the Mantua Maker Regency Corset for those of us who are busty). But am I going to make the Regency Corset? No. Because there is no front opening and it only laces up the back, and I will never be able to get in and/or out of it without assistance. Plus, the Regency figure seems to be pretty specific and I’m not doing this for historical reenactments or what have you–I just want a dress! So I’ve been looking around online and it seems that the Laughing Moon corset (Pattern 100–same as the above chemise) is recommended all over the place. Also, it’s a transition Regency-Victorian silhouette.
So first I thought I would try the Silverado, but once again the Great Pattern Review helped out. There’s a link to Truly Victorian, where they talk about fitting the Laughing Moon corsets. Really an invaluable page. According to them, if you’re a D or more you should use the Dore corset. I also emailed TV and asked about those of us who are naturally hourglass. Apparently, if you have a large figure, you want the more reducing effect that the Dore gives you. Well, I’m fine with reduction, so even though I had already traced the Silverado pattern out onto my tissue paper (and BTW, it’s a real pain to trace from the brown tissue that American patterns use) I started over and traced the Dore pattern out. Based on my measurements, I made a size 24 bust, 22 waist and 26 hip, blending the sizes together. But the muslin only fit in the bust. It was really tight in the waist (as in, I couldn’t close it at all) and was hopeless in the hips. It was better when I let it out. But when I went to transfer the seams I’d let out to the pattern pieces, I found that Truly Victorian recommends that you go down a bust size on their own sizing chart and start over if your waist size is larger than your bust size. So that meant that I’d need to go down to the C size, which was truly bizarre, considering that some bra companies have me in an F cup.
So now I’ve traced the Dore C cup size 26 bust/waist and size 30 (!!!) hip over onto tissue paper. It’s a good thing I bought that supplement. I have a feeling that it will be a little on the large size, but it’s easier to sew it down than to let it out. But after working all day at the dining table my back hurts, so the next muslin will have to wait until tomorrow.
I was starting to get frustrated about all the tweaking (a sure sign that it’s time to take a break), and realised that it was actually just absurd. I mean, who makes a corset these days just for fun? I’m sure there ARE people out there who do, but I’m not into Ren Faires, I don’t do reenactments, I’m not in the SCA… On the other hand, my figure could use some help. 
